Råd / Släkten, arter och hybrider / Rhynchostylis /

Skriv början av artikeln om Rhynchostylis gigantea Alba

Nyckelord: Rhynchostylis gigantea Alba

Inlägg med Rhynchostylis gigantea Alba som nyckelord.

2/2 -09

+ 29/9 -09

Rhynchostylis gigantea alba

Rhynchostylis gigantea alba. Från letherneck. Fri bild.

Doftar väldigt mycket, men gott.

Nyckelord: Rhynchostylis gigantea alba

2/2 -09

Jösses ..... vad fin den var, kan förstå att du njuter av dofterna nu

2/2 -09

Tackar. Den doftar faktiskt lite väl mycket, nästan som om det stod
ett helt gäng hyacinter inne, men det får man stå ut med.:-)

2/2 -09

Vackert Anders

Nu kan du njuta länge!!

2/2 -09

Tommy, den kom ju från dig, så den fick nog en liten släng med av
trollformlerna som Du använder på dina plantor.:-)
Men att ha fler än 1 Rhynchostylis gigantea i en lägenhet skulle nog
bli lite för överväldigande när det gäller doften.

2/2 -09

Jag höjde trollstaven över min ungplanta av Rhyncostylis gigantea spots i dag och tjöt "Densaugeo", men allt som hände blev att dotterns tänder blev dubbelt så stora. Då kom jag på att jag skulle ha skrikit "Engorgio" istället, för det är den formeln som ska användas för att få organiska saker att bli dubbelt så stora!
Vilken fin, Anders!

3/2 -09

Gratulerer, den er helt lekker!!

3/2 -09

Mina gratulationer till en vacker blomning!

3/2 -09

Helt underbar. Den får komma med på önskelistan. Det kommer att bli trångt hemma. Kan man ha den på fönsterbrädan??

3/2 -09

sommarbo. Du kan hänga den i fönstret över sommaren, jag har min barrotad
så den är ju lite skrymmande. På senhösten flyttade jag in den i orkidèrummet
under lysrör, och ger den något mer ljus än mina Phalaenopsis.

3/2 -09

Det blir till att skaffa lysrör så småningom. Jag behöver också ett orkidérum! Gitarrer och orkidéer måste lära sig att trivas tillsammans hemma hos mig....

Min "alba" har precis blommat klart för denna gång men körde en extra blomning i våras oxå och visst är hon läcker !Grattis.
Fast jag tror att Tommy säger att den inte är så "pjåkig" med extraljus utan klara sig i fönstret ?

3/2 -09

Hej titta vad jag fått hem idag fotot är inte så bra men, jag och kamera hör inte ihop,

3/2 -09

Jättetjusiga, båda två

3/2 -09

letheneck & christina, vilken härlig blomning, grattis.
mvh
Mikael

3/2 -09

Härligt överdådiga blomningar, grattis båda!

3/2 -09

Jättefina exemplar! Hur länge varar blomningen?

4/2 -09

iwahl, jag vet inte hur länge blommorna varar, det är första gången
den blommar hos mig.

4/2 -09

tack alla och letherneck för att jag lånat in mig lite på din länk, detta är också min första vanda överhuvudtaget och den var med alla blommor när jag hämtade hem den, hoppas bara man kan få se likadant nästa år från mig

4/2 -09

christina. visst kommer den att blomma igen, den har ju hela sommaren
framför sig att bygga upp krafterna. Vatten, värme/luftfuktighet och ljus gör nog
susen.:-)

4/2 -09

Dom brukar hålla runt 2 månader.
Här är lite odlingsråd för arten.

*Rhynchostylis gigantea (Lindley) Ridley

AKA: Saccolabium giganteum Lindley, Gastrochilus giganteus (Lindley)
Kuntze, Anota gigantea (Lindley) Fukuyuama

ORIGIN/HABITAT: Burma, Thailand, Malaya, Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, China,
Borneo, and Indonesia. In Burma, plants are found near Rangoon as well as
Toung-ngoo and elsewhere in the north but not in the Tenasserim Provinces
in the south. In Thailand, plants have been found throughout most of the
mainland from the eastern areas around Prachinburi northward through
Nakorn Sawan and Loei to near Chiengmai in the north, where plants have
been collected at 870 ft. (265 m), and down to the Kanburi district in the
southwest, just north of peninsular Thailand. In Malaya, plants are known
from Singapore and surrounding islands. In Laos, plants have been found on
the Vientiane Plain and in the Bolovens region. In Cambodia, this orchid
has been found on Mt. Camchay. In Vietnam, it is known from near Ho Chi
Minh City (Saigon) and near Quangtri. In China the type specimen for Vanda
Hainanensis was found on Hainan Island. In Indonesia, plants have been
found on Anambas and other islands in the China Sea. In Borneo, plants are
found in the lowlands an numerous locations.

CLIMATE: Station #48455, Bangkok, Thailand, Lat. 13.7N, Long. 100.5E, at
53 ft. (16 m). The record high temperature is 114F (46C), and the record
low is 50F (10C).

N/HEMISPHERE JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
F AVG MAX 89 91 93 95 93 91 90 90 89 88 88 88
F AVG MIN 68 73 76 78 77 77 76 76 76 75 73 69
DIURNAL RANGE 21 18 17 17 16 14 14 14 13 13 15 19
RAIN/INCHES 0.5 0.9 1.5 3.6 6.2 6.0 6.6 6.8 11.8 9.2 2.3 0.4
HUMIDITY/% 72 74 74 75 78 79 80 81 83 83 80 74
BLOOM SEASON * * * * * * * *
DAYS CLR 7AM 4 2 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 2 3
DAYS CLR
1PM 9 5 4 2 0 0 0 0 0 2 2 6
RAIN/MM 13 23 38 91 157 152 168 173 300 234 58 10
C AVG MAX 31.7 32.8 33.9 35.0 33.9 32.8 32.2 32.2 31.7 31.1 31.1 31.1
C AVG MIN 20.0 22.8 24.4 25.6 25.0 25.0 24.4 24.4 24.4 23.9 22.8 20.6
DIURNAL RANGE 11.7 10.0 9.5 9.4 8.9 7.8 7.8 7.8 7.3 7.2 8.3 10.5
S/HEMISPHERE JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN

Cultural Recommendations:

LIGHT: 3000-4000 fc. Light should be bright but indirect, and plants
should never be exposed to full mid-day sun. Strong air movement should be
provided at all times.

TEMPERATURES: Summer days average 90-91F (32-33C), and nights average
76-77F (24-25C), with a diurnal range of 14F (8C). The warmest
temperatures of the year occur in spring during the relatively clear
weather at the end of the dry season. Spring days average 93-95F (34-35C),
nights average 76-78F (24-26C), and the diurnal range is 16-17F (9-10C).

HUMIDITY: Near 80% most of the year, dropping to 70-75% in winter and
early spring.

WATER: Rainfall in the habitat is heavy to very heavy from late spring
into autumn. Averages them decrease rapidly into a dry season that lasts
for 3-4 months in winter and early spring. Cultivated plants should be
watered heavily while actively growing, but aeration around the roots must
be excellent, allowing the roots to dry rapidly after watering. For plants
grown in pots or baskets, the medium must never become stale or soggy.

FERTILIZER: 1/4-1/2 recommended strength, applied weekly when plants are
actively growing. Many growers prefer to use a balanced fertilizer
throughout the year, but others prefer to use a high-nitrogen fertilizer
from spring to midsummer, then switch to a high-phosphate formula in late
summer and autumn.

REST PERIOD: Winter days average 88-91F (31-33C), and nights average
68-73F (20-23C), with a diurnal range of 18-21F (10-12C). Although these
temperatures are fairly common throughout the range of distribution,
plants from northern Thailand and Burma commonly experience winter minimum
temperatures 8-10F (4-6C) cooler than indicated, so cultivated plants
should adapt to temperatures as low as 60F (16C). Rainfall in the habitat
is low for 3-4 months in winter and early spring. Humidity remains
relatively high, however, so some additional moisture is available from
heavy dew and late-night mist. Water should be reduced for cultivated
plants in winter, allowing them to become rather dry between waterings. If
humidity in the growing area is high, occasional early-morning mistings
between infrequent light waterings during this season should provide
sufficient moisture in most growing areas. If humidity in the growing area
is low, however, the frequency of the early-morning mistings should be
increased somewhat. Fertilizer should be reduced or eliminated until
heavier watering is resumed in spring.

GROWING MEDIA: The plants in this genus are reported to be singularly
intolerant of stale conditions around the roots and of being disturbed for
repotting. They are, therefore, best grown in a manner that allows the
numerous aerial roots to hang free. This is usually in baskets without any
supplemental potting medium or else mounted on tree-fern or cork slabs
with no padding around the roots. If grown in this manner, however,
humidity must be high and the plants watered at least once daily in
summer. Several waterings a day may be necessary for mounted plants during
very hot, dry periods. Because many growers find it difficult to provide
sufficient moisture for mounted or bare-rooted plants in baskets, they are
often grown in pots or baskets using an open, fast draining medium, which
allows the roots to dry rapidly after watering. A mix made up of medium-
to large-sized fir bark mixed with an equal part of medium- to large-sized
hardwood charcoal produces good results. Even through they do not respond
well when disturbed, potted plants should be repotted every year because
any break-down of the medium will result in the rapid decline of the root
system. Plants become reestablished faster with less stress if they are
mounted or repotted just as new root growth is starting. Growers report
that plants are in bloom for an extended period.

MISCELLANEOUS NOTES: The bloom season shown in the climate table is based
on cultivation records. In the habitat, these plants normally bloom in
winter. Plants are in bloom for an extended period.
Growers report that plants are in bloom for a long time.

Plant and Flower Information:

PLANT SIZE AND TYPE: A fairly large monopodial epiphyte with a leaf-span
of up to 24 in. (61 cm).

PSEUDOBULB/STEM: Up to 4 in. (10 cm) long. The stem is robust but very
short. It is densely leafy and produces numerous very stout roots. Stems
frequently branch, however, and older, well-grown plants may be made up of
many stems.

LEAVES: To 12 in. (30 cm) long by 2-3 in. (5.0-7.5 cm) wide. The
strap-shaped, dark green leaves are very heavily leathery, unequally
bilobed at the tip, and frequently marked with prominent, pale green,
longitudinal stripes.

INFLORESCENCE: To 15 in. (38 cm) long. The pendulous, densely flowered
spike emerges from the stem at the base of the leaves.

FLOWERS: Up to 50 on each inflorescence, but a medium-sized plant may
produce 3-4 inflorescences, and large, well-grown plants may produce even
more. Kamemoto and Sagarik (1975) reported that in Bangkok a large,
many-branched specimen produced as many as 30 flower spikes. Flowers are
1.0-1.5 in. (2.5-3.8 cm) across. The waxy blossoms are highly fragrant and
last about 2 weeks. Flowers usually are white, more or less spotted with
red-violet, amethyst-purple, or magenta, and often have a well-defined
apical blotch of the same color. The lip is red-violet, amethyst-purple,
or magenta but usually becomes whitish at the base and toward the middle.
All white clones are known, and very occasionally, plants with all red
flowers are found. Red-flowered clones have been crossed with other red
clones by growers in Thailand. About 80% of the progeny produced by this
breeding were red, which has resulted in red clones being more readily
available. Kamemoto and Sagarik (1975) reported that the red color of
these flowers is affected by temperatures preceding the flowering season.
When autumn temperatures are warmer than normal, the red coloring does not
develop fully and many plants produce flowers with large white blotches.
Sepals and petals are elliptic-oblong, spreading, somewhat sharply
pointed, and often rather undulate. The sepals are about 0.6 in. (1.5 cm)
long by 0.3 in. (0.8 cm) wide. Petals are about 0.6 in (1.4 cm) long by
0.2 in. (0.5 cm) wide and are widest near the apex. The almost oblong lip
is 3-lobed at the apex with small, rounded lateral lobes and a much
smaller but also rounded midlobe. The blade of the lip is 0.5 in. (1.2 cm)
long by 0.3 in. (0.7 cm) wide, fleshy, and slightly hairy. It points
straight forward, is nearly oblong, and widens somewhat from the base. The
disc is made up by 2 hairy ridges that descend into the spur. The short
spur, which is 0.2-0.3 in. (0.6-0.7 cm) long, is inflated but somewhat
laterally compressed, backward-pointing, and bluntly tipped.
Kamemoto and Sagarik (1975) reported that compared to plants from other
regions, those from near Chiengmai in the north have heavier stems;
shorter, thicker, and darker green leaves; and larger flowers, even though
the chromosome count is the same as plants from other regions. .

HYBRIDIZING NOTES: Chromosome count is 2n = 38 as reported by Kamemoto and
Sagarik (1975).*

4/2 -09

tusen tack Tommy för odlingsråden tänk om man hade haft google översättning:-)))
då hade man fattat allt

4/2 -09

4/2 -09

christina. Du kan klistra in denna länk i Google Översätt en webbsida http://www.orchidculture.com/COD/FREE/FS...

Själva översättningen är väl inte den bästa, men duger.

4/2 -09

tusen tack vad hjälpsamma ni är, jag är inte alls så bra på att läsa engelska,

Prata om bilden

3/3 -08

Skötselråd

Ropade in en Rhyncostylis gigantea Alba inatt. Några bra skötseltips till den? Helt novis känns det som...

Nyckelord: Rhynchostylis gigantea Alba

3/3 -08

jag kollade här http://orchidspecies.com/indexqrsel.htm men stog inte särskilt mycket , men halvskugga, varmt och dusch , blommar höst -vinter

3/3 -08

Bim: Jo jag har också letat mig fördärvad nu på morgonen. Blir nog i skuggat söderfönster i köket, har varmt här inne. Uppåt 30 på dagarna. Eldar med ved så det är jojjo med tempen. Ner till 18-19 på natten... Är det här en sån trevlig planta man kan hänga i ståltråd typ eller behöver den kruka och "jord"?

Jag sköter mina Rhync. precis som Vandor/Ascocendor.Lycka till
Monika

3/3 -08

Jag använder physaliskorgar till mina småplantor, det var efter ett
tips här på OP, det fungerar utmärkt än så länge. Jag låter dem
bada 2×10 minuter varje dag. Det har funkat hittills, de växer och
rötterna håller sig fina. Det borde funka på din Rhyncostylis också.
Jag har en gigantea Beauty Points, lite större än din, den får samma
vattningsprocedur som de små Vandorna.

3/3 -08

Tack för svaren, mitt frågetecken är lite rakare nu Ser ju så sköra ut när de är så små men kommer att bli fin där jag tänkt den

3/3 -08

Du kan även ha stor hjälp av att titta in på medlemmen Tommys sida. Han är en " Vandast" med stort V, dvs han kan det mesta om bl.a vandor och rhyncostylis

3/3 -08

Jodå jag har lusläst Tommys sida, mycket bra information där

Ge ditt svar